There is no question, France is a must visit place for foodies and market lovers. Nutmeg, as you already know is market crazy. She finds that there is something completely engaging about the sights and sounds of a market. In particular, Nutmeg loves the literal buzz of the commercial activity resulting from the connection of buyers to vendors, who are in many cases the actual producers. Southern France is a critical food production area for the country, with a slightly milder climate, the growing season is long and literally “fruitful”.
Eight military jets performing loops with tricolor smoke over the highway can be distracting. These jets are the Patrouille de France, the French equivalent of the Canadian Snowbirds. Through an affiliation with the Canadian Air Force, Ginger was able to get an introduction to l’Armée de l’Air (the French Air Force). Ginger was ecstatic when he learned of the opportunity to visit with this prestigious team.
The French Air Force was formed in 1909; it is currently the fourth largest air force in NATO with over 865 aircraft. Within l’Armée de l’Air there are two demonstration teams, who are ambassadors of the skies for the nation. The two teams are: the Équipe de Voltige; the World and European Aerobatic Champions, and the Patrouille de France. Both teams practice out of the 701 Air Base in Salon de Provence, which is also home to l’Ecole de l’Air (primary officers training school). This French defense facility predates World War II. Base Aérienne 701 is home to a French military pilot’s first flight training which begins with non-powered gliders, and then moves to propeller driven aircraft.
Olive groves are found in abundance in Provence, as the climate is similar to other growing areas around the Mediterranean (Greece, Spain, Israel, Syria, Italy etc..). Records confirm that olives have been produced in several middle east countries since prehistoric times. By 2000 BC, there are references to a form of olive press and oil exports, from what is now Syria. In ancient Greece, there are indications of the oil being used as both a food, and for grooming purposes. The olive leaf throughout history, has symbolized abundance, glory and at times peace. Through the ages the oil, has been considered sacred, it was used to anoint royalty, bless athletes in ancient Greece, fuel the eternal flame in the original Olympic games and even found in Tutankhamen’s tomb.
Jade is a lovely pure bread black Labrador; her full registered name isOgden’s Princess Jade. She is of hunting stock through her family linage. However, Jade was never trained as a hunting dog. The closest she came to participating in the action, was her one and only trip to Saskatchewan, duck hunting with Chili several years ago. Jade was really keen, she did not even mind the quick airplane ride in a dog kennel. She was happy to see the other dogs and even happier to greet their owners. However, when the first gunshot sounded Jade quickly retreated under the trailer-home, until everyone came back from the sporting activity. Jade had quickly decided that not only did she dislike the sound of the guns, she was not sure about swimming in cold water, lying quietly and chasing dead birds.
Needless to say, Jade has never been invited back to the annual hunt.
Jade is clearly not a Truffle Dog either. She does have keen sense of smell and can find bits of discarded food in the oddest places. However, she does not have a discerning nose and that is what is required for black (or white) truffle hunting. Truffles are a prize gourmand food in Europe and with increasing popularity and production levels on other continents.
There is no doubt Ginger is much more adventurous than Nutmeg, when it comes to food. She is not keen on foods with strange textures, that includes avocado, Jello and aspic salad. Nutmeg is very particular about her likes and dislikes; meat is well-done, eggs hard, and peas should not be eaten.
Typically, Ginger gets off pretty lightly on Valentines Day. With a wedding anniversary is just two days before, he can usually get away with a gift and/or flowers that cover both events.
The feast of Saint Valentine is both historical and religious. So both Ginger and Nutmeg wondered about the significance of the 14th of February in France. As it turns out, the day is actually is quite linked to French historical customs. As far back as the middle ages, the belief was that birds started mating in the middle of February. Evidence from the 14th century, stressed a romantic theme emanating from poets and literature at this time of the year. The card or love note apparently originated in France, when the captured Duke of Orleans wrote a poem to his beloved wife while he was imprisoned in the Tower of London.
There are certainly many great things about Aix en Provence. One of the best things in Nutmeg’s books, is that fact that you can say over coffee in the morning “Do you want to go to Cassis for lunch?”. Cassis is an easy 37 minute drive (50 Kilometres) so it is definitely doable for lunch. One fine day in January they did just that.
Cassis is located just east of Marseille and is very famous for the adjacent large towering white cliffs. The cliffs are equally stunning as those found along the English Chanel in Normandy. There are beautiful inlets called les Calanques that are accessible mostly by boat, or in some cases by tough hiking routes. What surprised Ginger and Nutmeg was the significant wine growing area right around Cassis. What they understand now is that the area is known for white and rose wines. The area is not known for Creme de Cassis, which is actually made from blackcurrants and is a speciality of Burgundy. Continue reading →
It is close to impossible to buy Ginger a present. He loves sporting equipment, electronics, airplanes, wine and other expensive things. He is diligent about doing the research on a product, and ensuring that he is getting it at the right price. Ginger is also has very good taste, so these new toys have a tendency to raise the Visa balance to new levels. Nutmeg often struggles to find the right gift. This year with a bit of help from a friend, she landed on the perfect Christmas, Anniversary, Valentines, Birthday gift (read: $$$..).
Black truffle plants, ten of them. Nutmeg decided that the white truffle version he will have to buy for himself. So yes, he is the proud owner of some 2010 variety plants, they should bare “fruit” in about seven years. Ginger’s plants are very fortunate to be located on a plantation, in the well drained soil on the Valensole plateau in Provence.
In Southern France (Provence), many of the roads are lined with beautiful sycamore trees (sometimes called plane trees). Ginger and Nutmeg noticed, that the Christmas light installation in Aix en Provence, on the Cours Mirabeau started the third week in October. It was a lengthy process, as it took about 10 days for the light installation (there are a lot of trees). However, the lights are not illuminated at that stage, instead they hang in anticipation, for the upcoming festivities at the end of November.
At the mouth of the Petit-Rhône in the Camargue, you find the seaside town of Saintes Maries de la Mer. It is located right on the Mediterranean Sea, with a lovely long beach and wild surf. The town was built between the 9th and 12th centuries and was a strategically important location for defense against pirate attacks. The church (Notre-Dame-de-la-Mer) is unique in both structure and height, as it is much taller than the surrounding buildings. The roof of the church at one time, served as a watchtower. Even to this day, the church is a site for Gypsy pilgrimages. Gypsies come from all over Europe every May 24th to come to pray to Saint Sara and usually leave an offering of cloth from their clothes for her to protect them through the coming year.
This town in the heart of the Camargue, is home to black cows, white horses, red rice, and the recognizable Fleur de Sel. The region has a strong tradition of bull rearing and herding that dates back to the late 1800’s when Folco Baroncelli a descendant of a Florentine family settled in the Camargue. His passion for bulls moved him to become a manadier and in 1895 he founded the “Manado Santenco” in Saintes Maries de la Mer. In 1909, he established the “Nacioun Gardiano” and was very active in the development and promotion of the Camargue bull-run.
Ginger and Nutmeg were invited to the very unique Festival D’Abrivado, which is held in Saintes Maries de la Mer every November 10th and 11th. Here are the fast facts:
Ginger and Nutmeg is a Food and Travel blog for Active Foodies hooked on travelling. We love food, history and digging into cultural traditions. This is a blog with a bit of humour, informative travel information and some great recipes.
Perfectly Provence provides a vast online resource for all things Provence, France. Whether you are about to travel to Provence or currently live their as a local or ex pat, we have curated the region’s best experts to bring you everything you need to know. Perfectly Provence is all about great regional cuisine, France travel tips, local markets and things to do in Provence. Bon Voyage!
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