Ginger and Nutmeg is a Food and Travel blog for Active Foodies hooked on travelling. We love food, history and digging into cultural traditions. This is a blog with a bit of humour, informative travel information and some great recipes.
Happy New Year to all! 2024 is an Olympic year for France. While many events occur in and around Paris, there is plenty to get excited about in Provence. There will be sailing and football (soccer). However, before that all starts, the Olympic flame arrives in Marseille’s Vieux Port on Bélem, a beautiful three-masted ship from 1896. From there, the flame travels around the country after a few regional appearances. Here are the details.
January 6th is the Epiphany. So, in Provence, it’s time to enjoy Galette des Rois, a delicious puff pastry (pâte feuilletée) filled with frangipane and a fève, which can be a bean or a tiny ceramic figurine. Don’t break a touch on the fève. It could be your chance to rule the roost for the day. As with the rest of the holiday period in France, there is a ritual around eating this pastry.
Our 2024 winter menu is a culinary creation from Chef Burnell Shively. Start with some nibbles, then move on to swaddled oysters. Check it out below, and in case you missed it, here is her article on the ancient grains grown in the Var.
January 21st is La Mess de Truffes in Richerenches, with an auction and gourmet meal to follow. Please look for Keith Van Sickles’ article on this event next week.
Depending on where you are in Provence, the weather in January is an assorted mix. In the countryside, you might wake up to heavy fog, crunchy grass, or even the odd dusting of fleeting snow. However, if it snows, it’s magical and fleeting. Watch the website for the article on winter travel essentials for visitors by French immersion teacher Virginie.
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Travel is Back!
According to Reuters, American travel demand to Europe is surging this year. So, we are joining the crowd and heading to Provence in southern France, where the food, wine, culture and scenery are hard to beat. So, are you going to travel summer or later this year? If so, take advantage of this GPSmyCity giveaway.
GPSmyCity Giveaway
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Located in southeastern France, the Estérel coastal mountain range straddles both the Var and Alpes-Maritimes departments. Of volcanic origins, the massif is roughly 32,000 hectares of rugged terrain awaiting exploration. Mont Vinaigre is the highest peak at 618 metres. According to the Estérel Côte d’Azur tourism office, there are 72 trails for biking (road, gravel and mountain), hiking, and walking that crisscross the range, including many within the protected Forêt domaniale de l’Estérel. We highlight here a few of the popular trails. From the coastline Sentier du littoral (previously the customs footpath) to the forested hills of the Pay de Fayence there are many hikes in the Estérels for all ability levels.
Romania was not at the top of Nutmeg’s bucket list, and neither was a 3-hour Ryanair flight from Marseille. The flight was a glimpse back to before Covid-19 days in its crowded boarding process and disorganized gate check. It was a mosh pit. Hopefully, no one lied on the pre-flight vaccine forms…
They arrived in Bucharest at midnight local time, so there was not much to see. The Hilton Airport Hotel could have been anywhere in the world and thankfully spotless.
The next day G&N picked up a rental car + TomTom unit and headed to Constanta. Unfortunately, the TomTom died (no battery) about 30 minutes into what should have been a 2 1/2 hour drive but now looked like a 3-4 hour excursion due to traffic. The roads are slowly improving thanks to huge EU infrastructure funds (read debt). In the meantime, the truck and car snarls are significant. From Bucharest to Constanta, the scenery for over 200km is mostly farmland with slight variation. We passed enormous fields, ploughed at this time of the year. Romania is the 3rd largest agricultural producer in Europe and crops include wheat, corn, sunflowers, potatoes, and even a few grapes.
Constanta in July and August is probably a scene that Nutmeg never wants to experience. The white sand beach stretches for 50km, lined by hotels, bars, restaurants etc. Yet, at this time of the year, it’s quiet, just a few walkers, dogs and swimmers in wet suits. Today the black sea was calm, but based on the infrastructure at the port, doubtful that is always the case.
The city itself is a bit of a contrast study with some beautiful old historical buildings, crumbling structures and partially constructed developments. Nutmeg had lunch on the water’s edge in Port Tomis, definitely a trendy area with lots of restaurants and good coffee. After lunch, she climbed the crumbling stairs covered in graffiti back to the hotel and called it a day.
When the idea of travelling to Romania initially bubbled to the surface, G&N talked about a road trip. It seemed like a decent plan, given that their car had been almost idle since 2019. In addition, they could explore some new countries (Slovenia, Hungary) along the way. Also of interest was that the route would practically trace the Orient Express. We discovered this fact quite by hazard at the Recontres d’Arles Photography show in August. However, that was probably when they both realized just how far away Constanta was from Eygalières – 2,500+ km one way.
Pre-COVID and with a more extended stay in Europe, they would have gone ahead with Plan A. However, the reality of different COVID rules in each country and thousands of potential touchpoints became clear. So instead, they decided on Plan B and booked a Ryanair flight from MRS to OTP.
The flight from Marseille to Bucharest is only about 3 hours. But of course, you need to allow enough time for the airport scrum that comes along with discount flights, COVID paperwork and airport parking. Note to self: always book airport parking at MRS in advance to reduce the pre-flight stress level (a story for another time).
Tell Us About Romania
Here are a few fast facts on Romania. The name emerged from the significant Roman presence in Dacia (106-275 AD) when they exploited the region’s mineral deposits, including gold and silver. Romania has a long history of turmoil and domination under the Romans, Goths, Ottomans, Soviets and Nicolae Ceaușescu. In 1989, the country shed the shackles of communism and their terrible ruler and had the first free elections in 1990. However, it has been a long road for Romania to reach its current level of prosperity with an even longer journey ahead. Romania joined the EU in 2007 and is the fastest-growing economy. The country ranks third in European agricultural production. There is also a solid manufacturing base (cars, electronics), petroleum exports, alternative energy generation, and the fastest 4G network in Europe.
Tourism in Romania was an essential economic driver before COVID-19 dealt a blow. Romania has three distinct geographic areas, roughly divided in thirds between mountains, forests, and rolling hills and plains.
24 hours in Romania’s Capital City
There is no question that the weather and a lovely hotel influence Nutmeg’s travel experiences. They arrived in Bucharest just after lunchtime on a sunny October afternoon. The drive was thankfully uneventful after the traffic jam that they had encountered two days before. The walking tour guide from Interesting Times Bureau, Bogdan, was far from surprised by G&N’s traffic story. Although it could be an urban myth, he said there are 100,000 parking spots in Bucharest and 1 million cars.
It is quickly evident that during Bucharest history’s mega-money has been spent. EU funds for upgrades to roads, infrastructure and essential structures continues. However, it was King Carol I whose vision largely shaped today’s urban plan with wide boulevards, sizeable city parks, glorious fountains, and imposing public structures. A decisive French influence is evident in Belle Époque buildings, glass arcades and domes. Sprinkled between these beautiful structures are utilitarian apartment blocks, graffitied walls, stark reminders of unhappy times, and nondescript office buildings. A surprising number of churches and monasteries remain and are still active.
According to their guide, the most beautiful building in Bucharest is the Romanian Athenaeum (Ateneul Român), a concert hall that first opened in 1888.
And, its ugly sister, only slightly smaller than the Pentagon, is nicknamed “The Monster.” The Palace of Parliament (Palatul Parlamentului). According to the Guinness World Records, the People’s House (Casa Poporului) is the heaviest building on the planet. At 240 meters long, 270 meters wide and 86 meters high, it is truly enormous.
Would They Go Back?
#1 As a coffee lover, Nutmeg always gives star points for great coffee. As it turns out, Francesco Illy, the man who invented the espresso coffee machine, was born in Timișoara, Romania.
#1a Ginger likes the Romanian beer.
#2 Generally, the food was good, and so was the wine.
#3 There is plenty to see, and G&N barely scratched the surface.
So, in conclusion, G&N hope to return to Romania, spend longer in Bucharest, and visit the mountains and the Daube delta the next time. Besides, they did not see Dracula.
Launched in 1995, Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) Les Baux de Provence was a bold step for a group of winemakers. They joined forces to carve out a unique identity in the ocean of, at that time, mediocre Provencal wine. Previously (since 1972) these wineries fell under the umbrella of the AOP Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence. The les Baux vintners felt that their production was blurred in the vast volume produced by that large AOP. Appellation d’Origine Protégée (AOP) Les Baux was re-established in 1995 reverting to the original appellation formed in 1956. Today ten vineyards are members of the AOP and follow the same guidelines for making wine.
The Stunning Alpilles
The landscape of the Alpilles is not exactly the land of milk and honey. Rather this is a harsh alpine climate that supports the growth of grapes, almonds, herbs de Provence, and olives. Known as the Alpilles (small Alps), this 30km band of jagged limestone cliffs and scrub brush is a protected regional park infused with wild aromas of herbes de Provence. At its highest point, the ridgeline of the mountains is only 498m (1,634 ft). Yet the gnarled limestone fingers reaching towards Provence’s blue heavens are simply arresting. The Park and its unscathed terroir are why the vineyard owners felt that their wines would be better served under the AOP Les Baux de Provence banner. Continue reading here for information about these vineyards in the Alpilles.
Nutmeg had read about a small vineyard in Paris, located in the shadows of the Sacré-Coeur spires. The last time either Ginger or Nutmeg had been to Montmartre was in the 1980s. After a crazy taxi ride complete with construction bottlenecks, pre-Christmas traffic, impossibly narrow streets and hills only fit for funiculars they arrived in the middle of a mob scene. A clear Saturday afternoon right before sunset, it was immediately obvious why there had been a 30-year gap since their last visit.
Calisson is a specialty candy from Aix en Provence made with almonds. There are several versions of the story surrounding how, and when this sweet treat was first made.
The French are certain the invention was theirs. It may have been as early as 1473 in honour of the King, Roi René’s second wedding, or later on as production, trade and development expanded. The first story involves a bride who was to be queen. She appeared dour, possibly unhappy with her lot in life. The tale whether true, or not, is that she smiled when she tasted candies.
Ginger and Nutmeg is a Food and Travel blog for Active Foodies hooked on travelling. We love food, history and digging into cultural traditions. This is a blog with a bit of humour, informative travel information and some great recipes.
Perfectly Provence provides a vast online resource for all things Provence, France. Whether you are about to travel to Provence or currently live their as a local or ex pat, we have curated the region’s best experts to bring you everything you need to know. Perfectly Provence is all about great regional cuisine, France travel tips, local markets and things to do in Provence. Bon Voyage!
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Ginger and Nutmeg is a digital travel guide aimed at an adult English speaking audience. These are educated, tech-savvy tourists and locals who want to understand unique stories and details behind a destination’s sights and tastes.